Wednesday the 17th of May, from Everest Base Camp
We have been back at EBC now for seven days resting, hiking around, eating a lot of good food, and waiting for a weather window. A few teams have been able to summit the last two days, and a few teams have tried and had to turn around because of high winds and cold temps.
We have been looking at a weather window towards the end of May. Historically the 2nd to last week of May has had a longer window with lighter winds and warmer temps. It looks like once again this will (hopefully)be the case. The last week it has been -30c or colder with high winds and new snow. Those conditions are not acceptable for us as we are looking forward to a safe and fun summit day on Everest. We have been lucky so far and hadn’t had to climb in any bad weather.
We do, as almost everyone else here, use a meteorologist to give us the best info as possible. But one of the many things I’ve learned over the more than a decade and a half guiding on big mountains. Is that sometimes you have to stick your head out of the tent and see what the weather is doing. And sometimes you have to stick your nose in it and be prepared to sit tight.
The forecast is looking like there will be some high winds near the summit the next few days. Then there will be 2-4 days that should be warmer (-20c) and lighter winds. Seeing this window in 4-6 days from now we are going to start our summit bid tonight. A friend of my used to say that you need to have ridged flexibility in order to give yourself the best chance of success in the mountains. We still have a lot of time and will be flexible if needed.
If everything works in our favor. We will be leaving EBC at 4am on the 18th and climb to C2. On the 19th we will take a rest day and look closely at the weather forecast. If needed we can stay at C2 for a few days. After a rest day at C2 we will move to our C3 with three Sherpas. Where we will start using supplemental oxygen. The next day the whole Sherpa team (we have a strong team of 10 climbing Sherpas) will meet us at C3 and climb with us to C4, the South Col. Being flexible and prepared we have the option of taking a rest day/weather day at the South Col if needed. When it’s our time to summit we will leave high camp late at night, summit after sunrise then back to the South Col for lunch.The next day we will climb down to C2 then the following day back to EBC.
Everyone is doing great and we’re all excited to be starting our summit bit to climb Everest!
Please check back as we will check in everyday and multiple times a day up high.
Mountain Trip Everest 2017